![]() Ivan Chefs Justo serves fresh seafood risottos, stellar roast suckling pig and other hearty meat dishes with faultless service. Grab a rum planchao (rum in a carton) – often cheaper than water – and head down to the seawall to hang with the locals who chat, flirt, sing, and fish long into the night as the moonlight flickers on the ocean swell. Havana’s Malecón, a seawall that ripples for several miles along the Atlantic coast of the city, is affectionately known as the ‘gran sofa’. Also seek out cutting-edge art at Factoría Habana, a gallery in a converted paper factory, and at the new Raúl Corrales Galería for Cuban Revolution imagery and the work of talented Cuban photographers. ĥ00 years of Cuban art – from pop and avant-garde to works by the country’s top contemporary artists – are found in the Museum of Fine Arts. Swing by Galería Taller Gorría for the low down and check San Isidro Distrito de Arte on Facebook for music and art events. In southern Old Havana’s tumbledown streets, spray-painted murals, art galleries, and an emerging bar and restaurant scene in barrio San Isidro are reviving this once-famous haunt of brothels and pimps. RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the 50 coolest neighbourhoods in the world Old Havana’s tight streets are hot, broken down, pot holed and bursting with life - the bars, restaurants, boutique stays and artisan shops of the communist government’s new economic era have injected creativity and promise into this extraordinary ancient city. Around the corner, a ruin slumps, a pedicab swerves a tarmac chasm and corral of cats, wooden scaffolding pins up a city block, and fruit and veg sellers call out amid decades of debris. One square is utterly gorgeous and filled with alfresco cafés. Walking the streets of Spanish colonial, art deco, art nouveau and modern buildings is like stepping across the black and white squares of a checkerboard. ![]() And on her 500th birthday this year, she shows no sign of dimming attraction. ![]() From the pirates who hovered at the mouth of her ample bay wanting to snatch the loot of Spain’s New World colonies, to today’s visitors who swoon at the sight of candy colored American cars and perked-up plazas, she’s a magnet. ![]()
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